Save Money On A Mechanic - Here's How To Change A Car Battery Yourself
"Click, click"
The sound of a dead battery, or rather, the lack of sound as your engine fails to turn over, will give you a sinking feeling in your gut. The time will come when you'll need to jump-start your car, most likely because you've left the headlights on for an extended time. Unfortunately, this is an extremely easy mistake to make, especially with newer cars that have dash lights whether or not your headlights are on, so don't feel (too) stupid about it — we'd prefer not to mention how many times this has happened to us.
So what are you going to do, just wait around for a tow? No. Just, NO. You can handle this, even without a high level of mechanical skill. If you know which is the business end of a screwdriver, you can deal with this. Because it's more about being able to man up and take care of business when life throws its little curveballs. Because, as a wise man once said, when a problem comes along, you must whip it. And it's surprisingly quick and easy to whip this problem with a little forethought and preparation, as well as the kindness of strangers. And if you know it's going to happen — and it is — there's no reason to be unprepared.
The first thing you're going to need is a set of jumper cables. So get your own cables to keep in your car. Without a doubt, it's much more promising for your chances to approach a stranger, jumper cables in hand, to ask for a jump. It's a universally understood sign. But you're gonna look like a real jerk asking someone you don't know to not only jump your car, but to provide the cables. It's embarrassing enough when you're alone, but it's especially humiliating if you've got passengers counting on you to get them to their destination, so don't be that guy.
There's really only one tool required to jump a car: those jumper cables. So what are you looking for when shopping for a set? As someone, somewhere, may have told you, length matters. Jumper cables are usually in the 10-20 foot range, but 20 feet is recommended because sometimes cars have their batteries on opposite sides of the engine and it can be hard to get the two cars close enough to one another if the cables are shorter.
Moving a car with a dead battery into an easy position for a jump can be a bit of a problem, depending on how and where it's parked. For example, putting two cars nose to nose on the side of a busy street may not be possible. Moreover, some models have the battery in the trunk, so if open the hood and the battery location isn't immediately obvious, do a quick check of the boot. Another consideration is the gauge, or thickness, of the cables, because the lower the gauge, the thicker the cables. You may also have heard somewhere that girth is important, and for this purpose you should look for 4 to 6 gauge. Look for cables with a good, sturdy set of spring-loaded clamps, too. And because jumper cables can be cumbersome to store and can get tangled and dirty, a set that comes with its own storage bag is a great idea.
Capri Tools makes a great set that will meet your needs. At 20 feet long and 4 gauge with solid clamps, all packed into their own bag, they are handy to keep in the trunk and easy to deploy.
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Following these steps, let's jump-start that car.
- You're going to want to get the two vehicles close, battery to battery — most likely, front to front but be prepared for the one-off with the battery in the rear — but never touching.
- Put each car in park or neutral, making sure the engines in both vehicles are shut off and the parking brakes are set.
- Open the hood or trunk and locate the battery in each car. Make sure you can identify the positive and negative terminals on each battery. Usually, red indicates positive and black is negative, but you can also look for "+" or "POS" and "-" or "NEG" to be certain. And you want to be certain. Another helpful clue is that frequently the positive post is a larger diameter than the negative post.
- Attach the cables. You've got a red, positive cable and a black, negative cable. First attach the red, positive clamp to the positive terminal in the car with the good battery. Then attach the other red clamp to the positive terminal on the dead battery.
Next, attach the black negative cable to the negative terminal on the good battery. Lastly, attach the remaining black clamp, AND THIS IS IMPORTANT, not to the negative terminal on the dead battery, but to an unpainted metal part in the engine compartment away from the battery, such as a nut on the engine block. (Note: you're always instructed not to attach that last clamp to the negative terminal, but rarely do you see an explanation for why it isn't done. Technically it would work, but there's a slight risk of a very bad outcome. Batteries can off-gas highly volatile hydrogen, and when you make that last contact there is likely to be a small arc, which could spark an explosion. Considering a car battery is full of sulfuric acid, and considering that your face is likely to be right above the battery when that happens, you can see why you might not want to take that risk, no matter how small it may be. So yeah, away from the battery is good).
- Start the vehicle with the working battery. Let it run for a couple minutes. Next, start the car with the dead battery and keep it running.
- Remove the jumper cables, reversing the order in which you connected them (negatives followed by positives). Thank that stranger profusely. Proper etiquette doesn't require an offer of any payment; they'll be in the same spot someday. But do pay it forward — we're all in this together.
- Drive your car for a good 15 minutes before shutting it down in order to allow the battery to get a good charge.
Congratulations! You're good to go. And you'll probably remember to turn those lights off, at least for a while. What if you're in the middle of nowhere, without the benefit of a kind stranger or random passerby upon whom you can rely? Well, there is another, more expensive option to simple jumper cables. A number of companies make battery amp starters that can take the place of another vehicle, providing the juice necessary to jump your dead battery. Some can be used to power not only your dead battery, but a range of peripherals.
We like the CAT 2000 Amp Jump Starter because it has enough stored energy to jump start a tractor trailer, so your whip will present little challenge. It also comes with an emergency light, because what if your battery dies at night?
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Of course, there are certain times when it's not a good idea to try to jump-start your car. Don't attempt if your car is in a place where it would be dangerous for you to be moving around it, or you simply can't safely maneuver another vehicle close enough to attempt the jump; don't attempt in really rough weather conditions, such as high winds, or a blizzard. There are always times when it's best to call for assistance. Most auto clubs and many insurance policies will allow for fifty miles of free towing. Check your policy and always have the number for roadside assistance.
But what if the jump-start fails? If you can't start your car with the help of a jump, or you've driven the car around for over fifteen minutes and it won't hold a charge, you may have a faulty battery that needs to be replaced. If you need a jump-start every time you leave your dome light on, there's a very good chance your battery isn't up to the job.
Alternatively, you may have another problem, such as a bad alternator, an issue with your ignition switch or starter connection, or even simply a bad fuse or a buildup of corrosion on the battery terminals. An alternator often doesn't fail all at once, but if it is beginning to go bad, you may see certain signs, like dimming or flickering headlights and gauges, or multiple and simultaneous electrical failures, such as the radio or the power locks and windows. It may seem like your car is haunted, like everything is going wrong with it at once, but if your battery has died and you've been experiencing some of these other symptoms, you'll likely need a new alternator.
An inexpensive battery tester is good to have on hand and can tell you whether your battery is holding an adequate charge. A digital multimeter is simple to use and easy to read.
The Etekcity MSR-R500 Digital Multimeter is inexpensive; measures voltage, current, and resistance, and is easy to use. The meter has a backlight and large numbers for low light situations.
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Testing the Charge on a Battery
Testing your battery is quick and simple. You'll need your battery tester, safety glasses, and gloves.
For the most accurate reading, the engine should be off. Turn your lights on for a minute to remove any surface charge. The battery tester will have a red and a black lead. Touch the red to the positive terminal on the battery and the black to the negative terminal. A reading of about 12.6 indicates a fully charged battery, but we want to check if it will hold a charge. So with the tester still attached to the terminals, start the car. The reading will dip down, then rise up again, but it shouldn't drop below around 10, and if it doesn't rise back up again, that's a pretty good indicator that your battery isn't holding a charge.
If all this is too much mucking around under the hood for you, an auto parts store can do a quick assessment of your battery, happy with the prospect of selling you a new battery.
Installing a New Battery
Most of today's batteries are maintenance-free, but you should still check your battery annually. Automotive batteries last about four years, on average. If your battery is old and/or isn't holding a charge, it's time put in a new one. The good news is that you can do this, too.
These days, the biggest cost incurred while having your car worked on is labor. Auto mechanics charge hourly rates that would make an architect blush. Sometimes it's unavoidable, but installing a battery needn't be one of those times. This procedure shouldn't take you more than an hour to perform.
You might think to run to your local auto parts shop, buy your replacement battery, and then start the process of pulling the old battery. You could do that, but you're going to make two trips that way, and you don't have to. First remove the old battery, then take it to the shop for proper disposal, and while there, pick up your new battery. Or better still, order your replacement online and have it sent to you. But you'll still have to dispose of the old one properly. Most auto parts stores will accept used batteries for recycling. NEVER PUT A CAR BATTERY IN THE TRASH.
Here's the eight items you'll need to replace your auto battery:
1. Replacement battery (order online or purchase when you turn in dead battery — more on this later).
2. Socket set (metric). You're going to need this to bust that terminal nut. EPAuto's reversible comes with both metric and English sockets in corrosion-resistant stainless steel, in a convenient carrying case. You won't have to chase down the right sized socket — it will be right where you need it.
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3. Battery terminal protectors. This tape protects the terminals from corrosion in lieu of grease — a much neater option.
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4. Safety glasses. A splash of Tabasco stings. A splash of battery acid? That'll leave a mark. You don't need to go Gucci — 3M makes an inexpensive pair that will provide wrap-around eye protection.
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5. Rubber gloves. Again, chemical burns are nobody's idea of a good time. Wells Lamont gloves are made to withstand caustic or corrosive chemicals while protecting your mitts.
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6. Memory saver. This device provides just enough electricity to save all your car computer settings, from seat positions to radio presets. Clore Automotive's Memory Saver has an LED light to let you know that it's actually connected to your car's OBD II, so that when you disconnect the battery, the computer still has power.
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7. Grease for the battery terminals (optional). Any inexpensive grease will do — you're looking for a coating that impedes corrosion where the protective tape doesn't cover.
8. Clean rags. If there's an abundance of corrosion on the terminals, some rags will come in handy for an initial cleanup.
Start by preparing for the removal of the old battery. For this, make sure you're parked in a safe, level spot with the engine off and the parking brake set.
If your car has an anti-theft code for resetting your radio or navigation system, you'll want to make sure you have that handy. Usually, this is written in your owner's manual. You'll have to enter the code once the new battery is installed for electronics to work properly after disconnecting the battery. Alternatively, a handy little gadget to have is a memory saver, which plugs into your lighter socket to keep the computer memory alive in all of your electronics while the main battery is being changed. It'll keep your clock set to the correct time and your radio and navigation systems functioning with all your presets in place. Technology, man, gotta love it.
Wearing eye protection and sturdy gloves, check the battery terminals for corrosion or sulfate buildup, which will be a powdery white, blue, or green. This can interfere with a battery's connection, so you'll want to clean that off using a wire brush. Your gloves and glasses will keep this corrosive material off your skin and out of your eyes.
Using your socket wrench, loosen the bolt that holds the negative (black) terminal and cable onto the negative battery post, then twist and pull up the terminal from the post.
(Note: Never touch a metal object, such as a wrench, to both terminals at the same time. This can cause sparking or even an explosion.)
Remove the positive (red) terminal using the same method.
Next remove the battery hold-down clamp with a socket wrench. Lift the battery out of its tray. It may be heavier than you expect, so be prepared, and lift carefully with both hands.
Once the battery is out, check the terminals, the tray, and the hold-down clamp for any sulfate corrosion left behind and clean that up with a wire brush.
Lift the new battery with both hands and lower it into place, making sure to align the negative post with the negative terminal and cable, and positive to positive.
Put inexpensive, color-coded battery terminal protectors on before attaching the terminals and, if desired for added protection, apply a thin coat of grease to the battery posts. Both of these will help minimize corrosion.
Now you can connect the positive terminal to the positive post, then negative to negative. Tighten the terminals onto their posts with your socket wrench.
Replace the battery hold-down clamp and make sure the battery is securely in place and the terminals fit tightly.
Congratulations, you've installed your new battery and you're finished. Reward yourself for a job well done in a method of your choosing. We suggest a cold beer.
Don't forget to take that old battery in for recycling. The toxic acid and lead are easily recycled, and often the seller of your new battery will charge a small fee that is refunded upon turning in your old one.
Battery Types and Recommendations
Before selecting a battery, check your owner's manual for the appropriate size and type and location of battery terminals. Some have terminals on top, others are on the side. Get the same type as your old battery, otherwise the connectors may not reach or fit within the space for the battery.
With batteries, as with produce, freshness counts. Even in storage, batteries lose their charge. You want as new a battery as possible. Shipping codes may need a little deciphering, but the shop can tell you the age of the battery. You want one that's no more than six months old.
Batteries come in two main types: Maintenance-free Lead Acid and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), which is a type of lead acid battery. Once upon a time, lead acid batteries required occasional topping off with water to maintain the electrolyte solution necessary for functioning. These days, batteries consume less water and will retain fluid for the life of the battery. The caps aren't meant to be removed, so do yourself a favor and don't try it, MacGyver. AGMs hold a charge for longer, withstand a deeper discharge (like leaving your lights on for an extended period with the engine off), and have become common in newer vehicles with a fuel-saving "stop-start" function that shuts off the engine when you come to stop at a light. While AGMs can cost as much as 100% more than a lead acid battery, they are worth the expense if your vehicle sits idle for extended periods.
EverStart Lead Acid Battery
For a basic, no-frills lead acid battery, Everstart makes a good choice. Their sealed lead acid battery is inexpensive, comes in all sizes and terminal positions, and most have a handle for easy swap out. You can pick one up at most local Walmarts.
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Optima Yellow Top AGM Battery
One of the nice features offered by Amazon when shopping for batteries is a prompt to confirm the make and model of your vehicle to ensure proper size and type. This will save you a step. Optima Batteries Absorbed Glass Mat Battery is a good choice for those more demanding applications that make the added expense worth it. Optima has excellent battery life and capability for cold cranking, with a 66 minute reserve for continued use.
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